Archive for the ‘Travel notes’ Category

Cameron Highlands, Malaysia

Posted: October 12, 2012 in Travel notes

When travelling to Malaysia. 1 usually does not believe of tea
plantations and mountain chalets. But when visiting the Cameron
Highlands within the country’s interior. that is precisely what you will find.

Tea PlantationsA former hill station for English settlers to escape the unbearable
heat of Kuala Lumpur. this charming area is a should stop on anyone’s
checklist when visiting Malaysia. Wealthy with lush jungle. rolling mountains.
waterfalls and agriculture. 1 can lose themselves for days hiking its
numerous trails and calming for afternoon tea and scones on a veranda
overlooking breathtaking scenery.

Breathtaking SceneryThe Cameron Highlands really are a three-hour bus ride from Kuala Lumpur on
a harrowing winding road. The trip can have hair-raising accidents happen
though local individuals appear to be unfazed from the unpredictable driving.
Sheer drops. narrow roads and a winding route will get your heart
pumping. But you are able to consider comfort within the fact that you are riding in
luxury.
The buses are pure decadence in Malaysia. Super VIP buses for a
mere US$10 buys you an over-sized totally reclining seat. English movies
and western bathroom on board. The roads are in good situation and the
drivers are quite skilled. Once you turn out to be utilized towards the dizzying speed
of driving in Asia. it gets to be much more bearable.

Tea PlantationsThe views en-route are breathtaking. You’re reminded of the rice
terraces in Vietnam’s Sapa. Only instead of rice terraces. it is tea
plantations. Mountainous terrain filled with trees complete of vibrant
green leaves blending with each other. Planted in neat rows. it’s as if a
giant knife has sliced lines with the strong canopy creating winding
patterns within the rolling landscape.
Upon arrival in the main town of Tana Rata. several touts from
surrounding guest-houses are there to greet you vying for your
business. It can be a challenging task selecting the right accommodation.
but there are plenty of locations to stay and it’s easy to get about. Kang Travellers Lodge is a superb option and as soon as settled in. 1 has
to verify out the towns numerous cafes and restaurants. Sitting down with a
book and drinking tea and dipping scones are a welcome alter from the
hustle and bustle of most of Malaysia.
Dinner offers plenty of possibilities. but make certain to not miss out
on the Steamboat dinners at among the numerous restaurants offering them.
The thinly sliced meat with vegetables and noodles cooked in a
simmering pot at your table gives a welcome warmth to the cool highland
evening.

Jungle TrailsIt is the hiking and the jungle that brings one to the Cameron
Highlands nevertheless. so make certain to grab a map and set out for one of
the many trails within the region. A should do trail is Gunung Brinchang. It is
the highest peak in Malaysia and starts from Sungai Palas. The 1-hour
hike through the jungle trail requires you to a summit that offers
spectacular panoramic views. Clouds sweep in and out over the mountains
changing the scenery with each passing 2nd.

High LookoutOnce you have soaked within the sights. a gentle walk down the road
requires you previous the Sungai Palas tea estate. providing stunning photo
opportunities. Deep green lines are etched in to the mountains where
millions of tea plants neatly planted in rows and patterns. Catching a
ride back to town is simple. Pleasant individuals will provide a seat in the
back of their truck and you may quit for fresh fruit en route.

Robinson FallsSeveral other trails may be explored also. you will find 14 in all.
They take you towards the beautiful Robinson Falls. Parit Falls. to a
Buddhist Temple and across the Cameron Highlands Golf course. It is
truly obtaining back to nature when one visits The Cameron Highlands in
Malaysia.

When you first arrive in Budapest for each (clandestine) business and pleasure- feeling like a dumb foreign doppelganger soaking with sweat and stinking of brimstone-say no towards the Four Seasons Hotel showers and yes towards the Budapest baths-a conventional Hungarian rite of passage. plus a de rigeur destination point to deal with your addled id straight inside a savvy second-person dialogue about what constitutes a real dream vacay.
But first. prior to you foray forth together with your American expat host. an energetic financial author named Erik DAmato. who’s also the editor from the well-liked Hungarian-based website pestiside.hu (Eriks wife. Janet. works for billionaire philanthropist George Soros). you must put together yourself for authenticated hedonism Hungarian-style.
Within the illustrious land that gave birth to this kind of Camay-complected beauties as longevity-queen Zsa Zsa Gabor (back in the days when she was in these hot sci-fi Venetian flicks. whilst her sister. Ava. preferred a Penthouse view to Green Acres). everyone appears like they’ve jumped out of the pages of these hefty Eurotrash Style magazines with very little text and an overabundance of adverts. They all appear as poised. relaxed. and wholesome because the export versions of Cosmo and GQ Stepford Models. Whats their secret?
An option medicine mecca. 1 in which even gypsy fortune-tellers are taken seriously. Hungary is really a little like a colorized Universal Pictures traditional. where old globe appears new society-and apparatchik chic masquerades as becoming in line with London. Paris. and Milan. An ethnic paprikash of former equestrian barbarians with DNA from the sere steppes and depopulated puzta. hungry Hungarians are large on fine food and drink (by far the very best in Central Europe). and enjoying life to its outer limits. Much more essential. they have something other significant European cities do not have: natural thermal springs!
So at Eriks suggestion. you fortify your resolve at one of the citys numerous wine bars. feeling a little like an extra from Twilight. sucking down glasses of powerful blood-colored Bulls Blood of Egri (inexpensive) and Soprani Kekfrankos (pricey). Even the Hungarian/Romanian ruler Vlad Tepes (Vlad the Impaler). the historical Count Dracula. would approve of this kind of neocapitalist decadence.
Then you definitely wend your way in the direction of the baths. walking slowly like a consumptive sleepwalker at a 19th-century-novel sanitorium. or an aging film star hopeful of being recognized on passegiata. whilst Erik factors out some bulletholes on a developing dating back towards the failed 1956 Hungarian Uprising against the Soviets.
Stifled during the Cold War. the signature baths for many years had been hidden behind the iron shower curtain. reserved mostly for nearby talent and busloads of East Bloc communist tourists. manned by Soviet satellite staffs with brusque Brezhnevian manners. But now that Budapest is definitely an epicenter of elegantly handled mass tourisma real nightlife hotspot and bonafide boho mecca-the thermal waltzy waters are filled with overseas vacationers. businessmen. backpackers. and expats.
Instead of gossiping at Starbucks. Hungarians socialize in the baths buck naked. with the hypnotic gurgle of their secret Finno-Ugric language mingling using the sound of bubbling moving water. With so many individuals bobbing up and down in bathing caps. like Olympic Water Poloists with Michael-Phelps-like physiques. your average American Joe may really feel like he continues to be plunked right into a gigantic pot of boiling eggs.
The ancient baths of Budapest date back to Roman times. when the city was known as Acquincum: for the natural thermal mineral waters that flowed like prized Pellegrino in the limestone rocks from the Buda hills. But it wasnt till the Ottomans came and conquered in circa 1541 that Turkish-style bathhouses had been built all through the city. Among the most architecturally Oriental watering troughs will be the remarkably surreal Rudas Baths. whose neo-Asiatic dome allows streaks of sickle-sliced sunlight in the film-noir steam.
Buda has around 120 thermal springs. which feed into gyogyfurdo (mineral baths) in this kind of places because the Kiraly Baths. with its 16th-century pool. the Rac Baths. with its Turkish octagonal pool. and the mixed-sex Lukacs Baths. with its two outdoor swimming pools (tanning central) and thermal baths. But maybe the best baths for Cond Nast Traveler readers. intrepid tourists. and business travelers with briefcases bulging with rubberband-bound Franklins will be the mixed-sex Szechenyi Baths (a.k.a.. Chain Baths). a popular meeting place (study: pickup spot) having a series of outside swimming pools and thermal pools. indoor thermal baths and steam rooms. along with a retro restaurant. resembling a hip commie cafeteria (spending budget area age). serving significantly greater than just over-paprikaed goulash. Its one of the biggest health spas in Europe.
All Budapest amenities have steam rooms and saunas (invented from the Hungarians ethnic brethren. the Finns) in addition to plunge pools of varying temperature. The tonic waters are reputed to have Ponce-de-Leon-like anti-aging and rejuvenation properties. A minimum of. M.D.s agree the warm waters are ideal for treating chronic arthritis and muscle and nerve discomfort. So float around the waters and dream away. while ridding your self of pernicious road rigors.
Following you arrive at Budapests most well-known soaking station. the Gellert Baths. which date back towards the 13th century. obtain a gander at the magnificent Art Nouveau interior. Following a small charge in forints (or euros. no big whoop). you enter via a side entrance. then wander via a labyrinthine rabbit warren of corridors. shower stalls. steam locations. and saunas until you reach the altering rooms.
Therefore with some trepidation you finally doff your clothing and emerge inside your too-tight Speedo briefs. (Some daredevils sport provided loincloths or do without.) Europeans are no prudes. so becoming starkers amongst total strangers takes some obtaining used to for the puritanical. sensible readers of the New York Occasions Sunday Travel Area. The separate thermal poolsone entrance for males. 1 entrance for womenlead from the stately primary 33-meter swimming pool at the far finish. The atmosphere: Habsburg opulence.
1 warning: finding the amenities (WC = water closet = bathroom). especially following getting polished off a peppery paprikash in the current past. can quickly turn into Hungarian Folk Dance Number 2 (pun intended).
As soon as you are waterlogged and wallowing in dancing dolphin endorphins. you can dry off your goosepimples by the glorious banks of the Blue Danube (with its unusual deja-vu delusion that you are inside a more-perfect. mirror-image edition of Manhattan/Brooklyn with it is crisscrossing iron bridges joining Buda and Pest). Therefore. it is higher time to hail a taxi to a ubiquitous Grand Tour staple: The fin de siecle Grand Caf. You decide on and arrive at the world-famous Caf Gerbeaud (V. Vorosmarty ter 7; Tel. 118-0892). built in 1870. to carry on your spa therapy. The Hunger.
Hunkering down with the Hungarian elite like a skilled flaneur for some Austro-Hungarian-style pastries and thick Vienna-style brew. you watch a circus menagerie of everything you envision are opera singers. embassy spies. noble baron vintners. and buffoonish burgomeisters sporting obsolete fedoras from the small-town equivalents of Central European Appalachia: Transylvania! This evocative castle-crazy riddle-which Hungarians say tends to make a good sidetrip (whoa!: precipitous mountain passes with no railings and sheer drops)-is nonetheless a sore point in between sorta-Germanic Hungary and their much more Italianate rivals. the Romanians. who gobbled up this little geopolitical wedge of Linzer Torte landscape following Globe War II.
Oh nicely. Why not?a little Tokaj to seal the deal with the day. if not with the Devil Himself. And isn’t that fab Franz Lizt lazily drifting with the airwaves from hidden speakers. which might have once been utilized to bug the conversations of counterrevolutionaries and foreign kaffe- klatchers? Igen (Yes). not a poor method to start a trip to Budapest. brimming with butterflies of anticipation. and totally relaxed and with out a care within the globe. . . .
Except perhaps when the luxus bill arrives. Its pulse-pounding sum is as alarming like a Mozartian Turk whirling past Budapest to storm nearby Vienna (an additional great sidetrip). the Empires former capital. The expulsion of what Erik humorously calls these Asiatic savages. having a smile of reptilian mirth. from this now mainly Christian country continues to be celebrated to this day from the invention of the symbolic crescent-shaped croissant.
Kursonem (thank you: sounds like curse on him). I guess the markup. during a globally economic crisis. means Hungarians are proud of their fast forward lunge from emerging market in to the European Union (nevermind NATO). when it is now high time for you to money in. play catchup. At any price. the old-style waiter corpse. with a starched apron. eerie handlebar mustache. and servis compris scowl-reminiscent of each Hungarian creepy actors Bela Lugosi and Peter Lorre-waits patiently while you lugubriously count out the alter. Zounds!
Subsequent time. please just place it all on your Platinum Card.
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BUDAPEST’S Finest FOUNTAINS OF YOUTH
Gellert Gyogyfurdo
XI. Kelenhegyi ut 4; Tel. 166-6166
6 a.m.-6 p.m. daily (mixed)
Kiraly Gyogyfurdo
II. Fo utca; Tel. 201-4392
6:30 a.m.-7 p.m.. Mon.. Wed.. Fri.
(males); Tue.. Thur.. Sat. (women)
Rac Gyogyfurdo
I. Hadnagy utca 8-10; Tel. 356-1010
6 a.m.-6 p.m.. Tue.. Thur.. Sat. (men);
Mon.. Wed.. Fri. (women)
Rudas Gyogyfurdo
I. Dobrentei ter 9; Tel. 356-1322
6 a.m.-7 p.m.. Mon.-Fri.; 6 a.m.-1 p.m.
Sat.. Closed Sun. (males only)
Lukacs Gyogyfurdo
II. Frankel Leo ut 25-29; Tel. 326-1695;
6 a.m.-7 p.m.. Mon.-Sat.; 6 a.m.-5 p.m.
Sun. (mixed)
Szechenyi Gyogyfurdo
XIV. Allatkerti korut 11: Tel.121-0310
6 a.m.-7 p.m. daily (mixed)
About the writer: John M. Edwards has traveled worldwidely (five continents plus). with stunts ranging from surviving a ferry sinking in Thailand to becoming caught in a military coup in Fiji. His work has appeared in such magazines as CNN Traveller. Missouri Review. Salon.com. Grand Tour. Islands. Escape. Limitless Holiday. Conde Nast Traveler. Worldwide Living. Emerging Markets. Literal Latt. Coffee Journal. Lilliput Review. Poetry Motel. Artdirect. Verge. Slab. Stellar. Trips. Large Globe. Vagabondish. Glimpse. BootsnAll. Hack Writers. Road Junky. Richmond Review. Borderlines. ForeWord. North Dakota Quarterly. Michigan Quarterly Review. and North American Evaluation. He recently won a NATJA (North American Travel Journalists Association) Award. a TANEC (Transitions Abroad Narrative Essay Contest) Award. along with a Solas Award (sponsored by Travelers Tales). He lives in New York Citys Hells Kitchen. exactly where you are able to eat ethnic every evening with lost souls from Dant’s Inferno. His long term bestsellers. Move and Fluid Borders. haven’t yet been released. His new work-in-progress. Dubya Dubya Deux. is about a time traveler.

photo by simon on Flickr

Victoria Falls Livingstone. Zambia. House towards the mighty Victoria Falls it is known as
Africa’s adventure capital. Dr. Livingstone found the falls in the
1855 and people have been flocking to see "The Smoke That Thunders"
ever since. It is one of the most spectacular natural wonders of the
world and the country has done an amazing job of preserving its beauty
while developing an impressive Eco-tourism destination.
Everything you could possibly want in an adventure holiday can be
done right from this town. Safaris. white water rafting. bungee jumping
and helicopter flights. Days can be filled with one adventure after
another.
As any true adventurer can tell you. one can’t be on an expedition
while staying in luxury accommodation. Good thing there are plenty of
campsites near the falls. Livingstone Safari Lodge is a great deal at
$4 per night. Situated on the main road leading to the falls it’s a
good central location for all activities. From here you can book any
adventure at a reasonable price with door-to-door service.

Jumping into the Gorge at Victoria Falls A trip to Victoria Falls wouldn’t be complete without a stop at the
gorge swing as seen on The Amazing Race. Doing your best Tom Cruise
impersonation. your day starts with a 55-meter (160 ft) abseil down the
cliff into Batoka Gorge. After a nice hike back up the ravine. your
legs are warmed up for a Superman jump. You soar over the gorge on a
zip line trying to make it to the other side. As you stare into the
depths below you are pulled back to safety only to do it all over
again. After two jumps. you are now more than ready for the final
activity of the day.
The Gorge Swing is a bungee jump with a twist. It’s your choice. do
you want to fall back into the gorge. or are you going to be more
daring and jump face first? Don’t worry. for the bargain price of $90.
you are allowed two jumps so you can try one. and then the other. The
55m free-fall is a thrill. but it is the abrupt snap at the end that
takes your breath away. The line tightens and whips you across to the
other side of the gorge at 120km (75 miles) per hour. You swing back
and forth several times until you are safely lowered to the ground. It
is a thrill like no other.

Helicopter View From the Falls It’s only half way through the day. and it is time to catch a
helicopter to take you to an Ariel view of the falls. They call this
thrill. white water rafting in the sky. The pilot takes you right down
to the Zambezi River. The high cliffs rise above you as you twist and
turn your way through the canyons following the river gorge. Just when you start to feel air sick. you
lift off high into the sky for a bird’s eye view of the world’s largest
waterfall.
Now that you have seen the falls from above. it is time to go for a
walk and see them up close and personal. Entering the national park
right beside the falls. a network of trails takes you right up to its
face. Covered in spray it’s a heart pounding experience being so close
to the thunderous water. The path takes you to a narrow bridge that you
can walk across. Be careful though. it can be slippery and difficult to
see. as you are only a couple of hundred meters away. Staying dry is
not an option and the water is so loud that you have to shout to talk
to each other.

Bridge to Zimbawe Add to the excitement by heading over towards the bridge down the road
that leads to Zimbabwe. Straddling the border of two countries. you
will find another yet another adrenaline experience. A 166 m (545 ft)
high bungee jump over the rapids of the Zambezi River. You have already
done the gorge swing. so why not add one of the highest bungee jumps in
the world to your repertoire.
A jump over the rapids is one thing. but a ride on them is
spectacular. Book a full or half day trip of white water rafting on one
of the top ten white water rivers on the planet. Long violent class 5
rapids recognized as the Devil’s Toilet and Stairway to Heaven will get your
blood pumping. As Safari Par Excellence says. "It is clearly the
wildest one-day whitewater trip on the planet."

Elephant in Chobe National Park Adventure doesn’t have to be heart pounding. No trip to Africa would
be complete without a wildlife safari. From Livingstone. you can book a
trip to Chobe National Park in Botswana. It has one of the greatest
concentrations of wildlife found on the African Continent. You can go
for a day or a multi day trip. A river cruise is not to be missed.
Elephant sightings are guaranteed with a population of 12.000 and it is
more than likely that you will see nearly all of the major species.
Zebras. lions. hippos. hyenas. they are all there waiting for you to
spot them.

Breathtaking Views Zambia is truly one of the most adventurous places on earth with
something for everyone. Most excursions are quite reasonable costing
about $100 USD each. One week will allow you enough time to experience
many of the activities. but more time will give you the chance to
explore Livingstone and the surrounding area to the fullest.

The bridge in query More than 10 years ago when I initial came to Thailand the typical tourist. one journey I went on was to the Bridge over the river Kwai. Becoming a bit of the war buff I had study the book and decided to see for myself obviously part of the original bridge was gone replaced by a new one although parts from the old bridge nonetheless remain and didn’t consider a great deal of work to allow the thoughts wander back in time to imagine what it may have been like or what the authentic bridge employees should have endured.
On the day we arrived is was oppressively hot and muggy it was uncomfortable standing within the direct sunlight with hat. sunglasses along with a bottle of chilled water the idea of of spending all that day building a bridge with out taking into account the attitudes from the guards was exhausting just to believe of.
The Thai-Burma rail line. 415 kilometers of it was built below order of the Japanese with forced labour by prisoners of war and enslaved locals during WWII. is also recognized as Death Railway. The Bridge Over the River Kwai was exactly where the conditions had been at it worst.
Built in 1 year. 1 estimate place the loss of lifestyle at 300.000. a costly line indeed.
We began our journey from Bangkok by train leaving from Hua lampong. the train is specific for the Bridge tour organized from the state railway of Thailand it leaves at 6am cost of ticket 200 baht.
The seats are wooden so pack a small pillow for the own 2nd class comfort.
The next stop will be the war cemetery. time has faded my memories but you will find mock ups from the camp. latrines. sleeping huts. utensils and so on. The next stop will be the bridge itself the train has commentary by guides but it is in Thai or was when I went.
The train stops long sufficient to walk over the bridge. take your pictures and buy souvenirs. What many people don’t understand is therewas 2 bridges. one was was produced from steel and also the P.O.W one was produced of wood this 1 was bombed during the war.
Following visiting the steel bridge you board the train and move on towards the wooden railway line. This is the one nicknamed the death railway. Again. you’ll have time for you to get out and have a appear about.
Back on the train and subsequent quit is the waterfall this is the end of the line right here you will have lunch it’s a 1 or 2 hour quit here. I can’t remember.
Time up. back on the train for the journey back to Bangkok to arrive at Hua lampong at 7-8pm. It is a long enjoyable journey for a extremely great price. a definite should do. Add it for your itinerary and consider your Asian dating woman together with you or your new best friend and commentary translator.
photo by markthehat on Flickr

Biography: Jennifer Conrad

Posted: October 8, 2012 in Travel notes

Jennifer Conrad is really a freelance journalist and editor who up and moved to China for 3 years. Her posts have appeared in Woman’s Day. Newsweek.com. Each Day with Rachael Ray. and numerous editions of Time Out.
She’s lived inside a lot of cities that begin with B. namely Biloxi. Boston. Barcelona. Buenos Aires. Beijing. andcurrentlyBrooklyn. Visit her on-line at jenniferconrad.org.

Biking in Australia

Posted: October 7, 2012 in Travel notes

Preparing my usual getaway from New York’s February climate was a bit more complicated in 2009 because of the financial situation. A month in India (which would have been my third trip there) included an upscale bike trip. 5 days within the Maldives. a luxury train ride and river cruise. Nevertheless due to logistical and cost concerns. it just did not appear to be the best option for 2009. As I informed the travel agent who was trying to strategy the journey. the connections are from hell". She chuckled and agreed.
I had an unusual reason for making my 3rd trip to Australia. Having cycled in all the U.S. states and Canadian provinces. I had only one Australian state (Victoria) left in which to cycle. (I had also previously cycled in Australia’s Capital and Northern Territories). Although it was a bit further than India. its domestic connections were easier. I did not require malaria pills. visa formalities were easier too. However. the trip turned out to become a little much more difficult because of an historic record-breaking heat wave. both within the states of South Australia and Victoria.
I only had to purchase 3.000 of my wife’s United Airlines Mileage Plus miles to have a free round trip New York-Melbourne itinerary.
Check out these tips for having an indie travel experience in Melbourne.
Trip 1
In 1992 I took my first trip to Australia with my wife. Joan. We enjoyed the usual tourist attractions in Sydney and Melbourne. We also used United Mileage on that trip. At that time United gave mileage award recipients 50% off vouchers for Hyatt Hotels. We took advantage of them and stayed at outstanding Hyatts for most of our destinations. We travelled by train from Sydney towards the capital. Canberra. where I hired a bike and rode on that city’s excellent network of trails before flying to Melbourne. The interesting Hyatt. in the embassy row. was in a time warp. It was designed to look like a 1920′s hotel. from all aspects – interior design to the employees’ uniforms!
While staying in Melbourne we hired a car and it has become the largest left hand driving city in the world in which I have driven. Making a right turn from the main street’s (Collins) left lane was unnerving. One evening we drove a few hours south to Phillips Island to watch a procession of penguins.
We then drove for much of the next two days to Adelaide on the Great Ocean Road. one of the world’s classic drives. There was a roadside sign Drowsy Drivers Die – turned out to be the only time in my life that I fell asleep while driving a car. Fortunately I was quickly awakened by the sounds of our car rolling over the small stones on the road shoulder. Aside from a flat tire. there was no damage to us or the car.
Before reaching Adelaide we took a 45-minute ferry trip to Kangaroo Island. known as Australia’s Galapagos Island. In addition to kangaroos. we saw penguins. seals. koala bears and unusual birds. The South Australia folks we met were very friendly. The daughter of our K.I. wildlife guide was a concierge at the Adelaide Hyatt. our subsequent stop. He alerted her to expect us. She was extremely helpful in arranging a bike hire. restaurant reservations. etc. Several Adelaide residents we met on the K.I. ferry invited us to their homes for an evening.
I had one day free for biking. The difficult choice of destination was between two of my favorite cycling venues. winelands and beaches! I opted for the shore. which I call the Australian Riviera. Little did I know then that I would return seventeen years later for an intensive nine day bike tour in these same areas! The weather that day was perfect for cycling. Using mostly bike paths. I headed for the palandromic seaside town of Glenelg. the center of a strip of beach communities.
The following day Joan and I boarded the classic Ghan train. heading north to the center of the outback. Alice Springs. (It now goes all the way to the Northern Coast of Australia. Darwin). For the overnight journey. the passengers had luxurious private bedrooms with ensuite facilities. There were three sittings for dinner. Just before the 3rd sitting. an announcement was made requesting the 1st and 2d sitting diners to kindly return the silverware they took so that the 3rd seating passengers would not have to dine with their fingers!
Although the train had several attractive bar cars. I noticed that most of the couples retired to their compartments soon after eating. I assumed that this was their only experience in a train with private accommodations. and they wanted to try lovemaking aboard a train in motion!
On arrival in Alice Springs we got our first closeup of aborigines. They were lying around the train station listlessly. many in an apparent drunken stupor. It was hot (maybe 100 degrees F). flies were in abundance. I could see why the Australian national salute is waving flies away from an Aussie’s face. The Sheraton was comfortable; we spent the afternoon at its large pool. We took camel rides (bumpy) and visited the Flying Doctors base (they fly small planes to treat ailing ranchers at outlying cattle stations.
We were preparing to visit Ayers Rock the next day. an ancient mammoth rock formation. Nevertheless. due to a family emergency. Ayers Rock and Perth were scrubbed.
Although we were flying on a free economy ticket from United Mileage and all of the coach seats returning to the U.S. were filled that day. the airline graciously flew us back in the available business class seats. They never asked us for a payment.
We arrived in Boston. exhausted. met with our daughters’ doctors. They were drawing diagrams of our daughter’s G.I. tract. describing the surgical stages they were preparing to follow. We were like zombies from the ordeal of our journey. All I could say was: Just do it. The surgery was successful; Mindy was back in class within a week or so. I remember someone saying that Ayers Rock would still be there whenever we returned – it wasn’t going anyplace.
Trip 2
Twelve years later. in 2004. I decided to spend the whole month of February in Australia. Joan opted to remain in New York. I joined a small group one-week bike tour of Tasmania organized by Pedaltours. a New Zealand based company. The tour began in Launceston and ended in Hobart. It had five American members and a guide. We stayed at mostly rustic. but comfortable accommodations. and we rode through lightly trafficked parks and wilderness. We saw unusual animals indigenous to Tasmania such as Tasmanian devils. wombats and platypuses. One night we stayed at an operating farmhouse.
I flew to Ayers Rock to continue the 1992 aborted trip. The area around the Rock was quite hot and flies were again plentiful. I observed a number of local hapless aborigines. There were several luxurious resorts.
I joined a sunset champagne group bus tour. It sounded like a romantic event; my uneasiness was unwarranted. though. Our guide. an attractive young Australian woman of Italian descent. usually led tours for Italian tourists. That day she was assigned to the English speaking group.
The plan for the last day within the area was for me to climb the rock. Because of high winds. Rock was closed. but there were bicycles for hire – riding out to and around the Rock was a doable alternative. The flies were a minor annoyance; I had already cycled
in the Northern Territories.
Perth. the next destination. is comparable to San Diego. located within the southwest of a comparable-size country. and has a similar dry and sunny climate. Everyone who wasn’t on a yacht was on a bike! I had a full week here with no definite plans. and no problem keeping busy. I had a room at a downtown Hilton that offered bikes anytime.
One day I booked a group bus tour southbound to the Margaret River wine region. There was a wine boat cruise. We were welcomed aboard with a glass of local bubbly. All I can say it was a good thing I had no cycling or car driving plans later!
Rottnest Island is an amazing place. A ferry from Perth brought us there – a different world – nice beaches and appealing indigenous animals such as quokkas. A large building housed over 3.000 rental bikes. the most I had ever seen under one roof.
I cycled along Perth’s string of excellent beaches towards the boating center of Freemantle. International yachting events frequently take place there. Its characteristic late day winds are called Freemantle Doctors. Having cycled so much in Australia. I felt I was entitled to an Australian cycling jersey which I purchased at the bike shop in Freemantle.
As a souvenir (and symbol) of my the trip. I wanted to be photographed on my bike with kangaroos close up. One guidebook mentioned that the kangaroos who lived in a park on a Perth Island were fed daily at 7:00 within the morning. I arose early. cycled out there with my camera. I rode all around the island. but I could neither find a roo or a person who had ever seen one there. Dejectedly I turned around and headed back downtown. As I was going across the bridge leaving the island. I spotted a small vehicle with the words: Park Ranger. I flagged her down. She said she was on her way to feed the animals. I should follow her. The two of us fed them. she took a number of photos of me. the roos and my bike. It blew her mind that someone came all the way from New York to her park for this purpose.
It was getting close to the end of my wonderful and almost cloudless week in Perth. I had to prepare for my next adventure – the epic Indian Pacific four-day train ride across the continent from Perth to Sydney.
The Indian Pacific train runs from the Indian Ocean at Perth towards the Pacific Ocean at Sydney. It departs Perth at noon on Wednesday and arrives at Sydney on Saturday. It stops at Kalgoorlie. Adelaide and Broken Hill for about three hours. Kalgoorie and Broken Hill were extremely hot. I took a guided bus tour of the mining operations at Kalgoorie which was sandy and dusty. I strolled around Adelaide and Broken Hill.
Passengers included a few Americans and Canadians. There was a relaxing lounge car with large windows for viewing the landscape and the wandering animals. The train continued its roll in an easterly direction across the Nullarbor Plain. a vast. almost treeless semi-arid area. One stretch of rail without a turn was the world’s longest straight rail path. Overall. I considered it a relaxing and laid back experience in which I got an appreciation of the nothingness of the Outback.
After detraining in Sydney. I rode bike around the city so I could chalk up New South Wales as a state in which I had cycled.
Fraser Island – View from Indian HeadI then flew up towards the Gold Coast of Queensland. took a bus to Noosa. an upscale resort town. It had a European look – outdoor cafes. pleasant beaches and hotels. I strolled through the adjacent national park and got a good look at its resident koala bears. Two English tourists. one a leading morning female London disc jockey joined me for a memorable full day SUV drive to Fraser Island – a World Heritage site and the world’s largest sand island. It’s an island of exceptional beauty. encircled by uninterrupted white beaches. The professional driver gave us some thrills by quickly driving up and down the large sand dunes.
Back south to Brisbane. the state capital. where I strolled around this coastal city. dining at several outdoor seafood restaurants. I spend the last day in Australia cycling on quaint North Stradbroke Island. about 30 kilometers from Brisbane by train.
I had covered much of this fascinating country on these two trips. but hadn’t cycled in Victoria.
I spent three nights and two days in Adelaide on my own prior to meeting the bike group. On one of the hot days I boarded a tram (streetcar) to Glenelg in the morning. hoping the beach would be somewhat cooler. The unprecedented heat had been causing many problems (including dozens of heat related deaths among area residents. power failures and buckling tracks affecting the tram). I was lucky – made it to Glenelg and back without incident. While I was there I noticed a number of men were swim trunks with a weathered image of the Australian flag in front and white in back in a down towards the knees pattern. I treated myself.
After meeting our group and guides. having an orientation and introduction session. lunch and fitting and adjusting our Trek bikes. which were provided for our use. we had time for a short 14-mile ride. The heat was dry. there was a breeze and most of the those miles was within the shade.
Actually I have been more uncomfortable riding on humid summer days in U.S. cities within the Southeast such as Atlanta and Miami. The heat wave broke to some extent on the second day. As we left Adelaide and approached the coast. the temperature became bearable.
We were within the Barossa Valley the first few days. where we saw and tasted some of the country’s very best wines. From there. south towards the Fleurieu Peninsula and its charming coastal villages. Kangaroo Island was the next stop and integrated one day off our bikes for a non biking guided tour of natural and wildlife sights. We returned to Adelaide on another very hot day. I kept refilling my water bottle with ice cubes.
MelbourneWe had several rides on the hills behind Adelaide and one group ride to Glenelg’s beaches as the temperature again returned to a bearable level. We finished the last day before noon. I took the hour flight to Melbourne. My accommodation overlooked the Yarra River. which had promenades along both sides with outdoor restaurants. office buildings and a new casino complex. all within a ten-minute walk for me. There were food courts to die for. Melbourne. is definitely a cosmopolitan city. Its level of cuisine (especially seafood) approached that of Paris and New York.
The first day I had a guided bike tour of the city’s ethnic neighborhoods with a knowledgeable local guide and a friendly English couple. We stopped for tastings every hour. The tour was supposed to last 4 hours. It turned out to be almost 6 hours.
I spent the last day on my bike (where else!) riding along the Southern Coast and the Sausalito type community of St. Kilda. The road was lined with beaches and palm trees. I saw the Tasmania ferry loading. I had cycled a total of about 350 miles in this magnificent country on this trip. I had time to go up to the top of the new 88-storey Eureka building for an overview of the area. spotting Melbourne’s main art museum. The sun emerged within the afternoon. warmed up to about 70. I dined al fresco on seafood and watched rowing teams on the Yarra.

Bermuda Short – Northern Caribbean Jigsaw Piece of the Lost Continent of Atlantis (Perhaps)

Bermuda is the only Caribbean island that is not truly within the Caribbean. Whenever you arrive with your family members. a little north of the mark (the real geographic West Indies). to this Atlantis-like puzzle piece that just doesnt match in (for example: it will get cold within the winter). the scene seems like a really English garden party. One where total strangers with yachty expat names like Neville or Trevor order Remy with Received Pronunciations.
The bobbies are black; the vacationers are white. And the sunrise/sunset racket is pure Technicolor. Youthful seaside bums. hopping island to island (successfully staying away from either function or graduating school). resemble easygoing Johnny Depps in flamboyant pirate gear. Or. Fleetwood Mac.
More essential. Bermuda is so civilized that even my father. a literary critic and professor emeritus who doesnt like swimming or massages. feels comfortable hereswilling G&Ts on the veranda of our rented villa and looking cute wearing the islands signature Bermuda Shorts with stretchy white socks pulled up to his knees.
Tintin shorts! I mocked lightly. having just recently discovered the Belgian cartoonist Hergs masterpieces here at a local resort gift shop. My dad aims a miserable smile. what I call the smilish grin. a combination of moral superiority and philosophic defeatism.
Tintin is a god to me. I greedily bought the entire collection (almost) of colorful adventure tales featuring the slightly androgynous-looking boy reporter and his sidekick dog Snowy (Minou in France). I gave into this alternate universe. while Tintin hung out with Haddock. Calculus. and the Thom(p)son Twins either at his mansion. Marlinspike Hall. or out and about abroad somewhere. usually a steamy foreign port-of-call. Man. that cast goes everywhere: to the imaginary Balkan kingdom of Syldavia. to the Peru of the Incas. to the American Wild Wild West. and even the Moon! The Crab With the Golden Claws and Red Rackhams Treasure were marvelously maritime enough to keep me away from the beach and the water. munching Cadburys (then unavailable in the U.S.).
Which was fine by my dad. who had a deep distrust of what lay beneath the ocean blue: sharks and seamonsters and sirens and stuff.
I was pleased as punch and simply delighted when an elderly tourist from Hamburg-sporting an amusingly archaic Hitler mustache-noticed me reading the books in the hammock near the beach. Eyes welling up with German Romanticism. he told me that in Germany Tintin was known simply as Tim!
No 1 knows whether or not Tintin is gay or straight.
The only Tintin adventure readily unavailable in Bermuda was Tintin au Congo (Tintin in the Congo). which is not sold in the U.S. and Anglophone colonies because it is just not PC. In this suppressed classic. Africans are depicted as resembling the worst caricatures of large-lipped minstrelsy Ive ever encounteredI got a collectors copy later in France. Imagine. Al Jolson in blackface singing My Little Mammy! Small Black Sambo chasing a tiger around a tree who turns into ghee (butter). In the end. a giant totemic statue of Tintin is worshipped by the black Africans on their knees before him.
Besides introducing me to Tintin. Bermuda stands out as the place I first tried Vichysois (what my Grandpa Bob explained to me was cold potato soup) at the King Henry VIII restaurant. As a youthful teenager there. I had to wear my blue blazer and act like a gentleman in order to get an illegal glass of purple beaujolais. Say goodbye to Campbells and Cup-a-Soup. So Tintin and Vichysois opened up a new world to me. illimitable. magnificent. magical. None other than the world of the developing adult imagination.
I was proud from the fact that I was a YMCA Dolphinan extraordinarily good swimmer for my age. My parents. tanned as Hollywood movie stars. nevertheless preferred us using the David Hockney-style pool instead of going to the beach with its powerful undertow and surfing waves. To keep me away from the ocean. my Grandma Helen. a Mayflower descendant directly related to William Bradford (who made sandwiches for tramps during the Depression and died on her birthday at the ripe round age of 100). would play endless rounds of Gin Rummy with me. Obviously. a saint.
Now. whats the worst thing that can happen on a family members vacation? Its best left unsaid. But it usually involves a Missing Persons report. In explanation of why I am still here on planet Earth. all I can say is Thank God for the Bermuda Triangle!
The Bermuda Triangle . . . blah. blah. blah.
Rather than waste time listing the series of strange disappearances within this supernatural whirling vortex. or Googling apocryphal material written by ginger-haired madmen computer geeks feeding like leeches on conspiracy theories. I can direct you to Amazon.com. Just chuck into your cart 1 of the sensationalist pageturners like Mysteries from the Bermuda Triangle Revealed. Come on. it must have something to do with flying saucers and space aliens!
All of this introduction was to prepare you for the shock of my sudden disappearance from Warwick Beach during a rainstorm. while my sister. Sarah. and I sat on the beach letting large waves break over us. Crash!
Next thing I knew. I was tumbling in a painful rinse cycle. then emerged right out in the middle from the ocean. pulled out by a vicious evil riptide!
It was too far to make it back to shore. too late to prepare myself for death. But no. instinct took over and I forced myself into a mind-numbing superhuman Australian Crawl. remembering to swim diagonally to shore. Something was giving me a supernatural boost. and I felt like I was watching myself from above in the White Lightit is not time yet! Getting perilously close to the jagged rocks framing the seaside. I changed over to breast strokes to change course. And at last . I was washed to shore by the galloping foam. where I kissed the sand. My bedraggled sister was hysterical with fear. crying her eyes out.
We never told my parents what had happened.
They say that death will be the ultimate adventure. I must agree. Years later. I have to be philosophical about my brief sidetrip to heaven and back. The only explanation on how I survived my near-death experience within the Deep and escaped Davy Joness Locker (the worlds largest mass grave) was that I was actually inside the Bermuda Triangle! I couldnt help thinking that I had gotten by with a bit help from our friends-and the sound of crackling angelic laughter. . . .
About the author:
John M. Edwards has traveled worldwidely (five continents plus). with stunts ranging from surviving a ferry sinking in Thailand to being caught in a military coup in Fiji. His work has appeared in such magazines as CNN Traveller. Missouri Review. Salon.com. Grand Tour. Islands. Escape. Endless Vacation.Cond Nast Traveler. International Living. Adventure Journey. Emerging Markets. Literal Latt. Coffee Journal. Lilliput Review. Artdirect. Verge. Slab. Stellar. Glimpse. Big World. BootsnAll. Hack Writers. Trips. Travelmag. Vagasbondish. World Hum. Richmond Review. Borderlines. Go Nomad. North Dakota Quarterly. Michigan Quarterly Review. and North American Review. He recently won a NATJA (North American Travel Journalists Association) Award. a TANEC (Transitions Abroad Narrative Essay Contest) Award. and a Solas Award (sponsored by Travelers Tales). He lives in NYCs Hells Kitchen. His future bestsellers. Move and Fluid Borders. have not been released. His new work-in-progress. Dubya Dubya Deux. is about a time traveler.
Photo by Meghan L on Flickr

Houhai Lake. BeijingBeijing
appeared to become a bloated metropolis all gussied up for that August Olympics.
scrubbed clean with colorful potted plants lining the streets. with not a speck
of litter marring the immaculate avenues. Volunteer booths were conspicuous at
subway stops. manned by enthusiastic youthful individuals eager to demonstrate their
newly minted English phrases. Police and military stood everywhere. with
safety checkpoints at all bus and subway entrances. x-raying all packages and
giving everybody a good once over.
During the two weeks from the Olympics. the government
restricted

Great Wall of China at Samataicars from numerous of the roads. closed many factories. and seeded the
clouds with chemical substances to induce rain and wishfully wash away the expectant hazy
cloud of pollution. Yet. once we were there. the sky could not have already been bluer.
the air much more fresh. Inside a dramatic display of double standards. Beijing Olympic official
memorabilia (t-shirts. medals. envelopes. stamps. and so on) had been only accessible in
designated shops. but it continued to turn its back on blatant copyright
infringement. and allowed everyone to flagrantly market knockoffs. Many articles
in the papers trumpeted the huge stress to present China within the best light. and proud
banners had been displayed all over the place Olympic fever was boiling more than.

Guarding Chairman MaoWe stopped in the China Post workplace less than a mile from
the Olympic venue to buy postcard stamps to America. This created a little stir.
because. due to restricted supply. the clerks only permit 5 stamps per consumer for
every visit. Following thirty minutes. we finally did leave having a stash of ten hard
fought stamps. even though even these were difficult to acquire. Not surprisingly.
the clerks kept attempting to promote us Olympic envelopes. Olympic medals. and
Olympic mascots from the officially designated item situation just no postcard
stamps.

Colorful Forbidden CityBeijing reminded me of Los Angeles. big and
sprawling. with many new districts crowding out the historic sections of the
city. Shiny new skyscrapers. so typical all through China. rise above the ancient
narrow alleyways (hutongs). which type the historic core of this great
metropolis. Transportation is adequate. even though definitely not at the same
degree as Shanghai or Hong
Kong. Expansion of the subway lines is ongoing. as the suburbs
bleed outwards in the city center. The Metro circumnavigates the core of Beijing. so anticipate to
choose the closet place on the grid square and walk from there. Fresh and
clean. it certainly features a weeks really worth of attractions to satisfy even the most
jaded traveler.

Beer Merchant around the Great WallThe number one highlight is the Great
Wall of China. built centuries ago to help keep the marauding Genghis
Khan and his Mongolian invaders at bay. Rising from the sea. it follows the
natural contours of the hills for another 4200 miles inland. with most of the
sections in anticipated disarray. The closest section. the restored Badaling. is
probably the most visited. However. this really is ground zero for vendors and their cheap
wares.
We chose instead to hike a five-mile section from
Jinshandling to Samatai. a section light on tourists and mostly vendor free.
Here. the Great Wall exists in its authentic state. with extremely little investment
in upgrades. As far as the eye can see. the ancient wall ascends and descends
the hills. and you scramble along the surprisingly broad and well-constructed
walkway as best you are able to. Passing through thirty-one guard towers. and along
crumbling ancient bricks set in centuries old mortar. I kept reflecting on how
cold and lonely it must have been for that poor guards assigned as sentries. The
engineering and surveying of this wall is amazing. The work to quarry and
haul rocks up the steep hillsides is Herculean. The mixed efforts of
a large number of employees more than a lot of many years and the incredible ongoing longevity
will impress anybody so fortunate to visit.

Dancing in the ParkTours leave in the Peking Downtown Backpackers Association
every day at 6:30 AM inside a comfortable air-conditioned minibus. It will take three
hrs to obtain there; the hike itself is four-five hrs (one-way). having a three-hour
return.
I wouldn’t classify is as an easy hike. as you do follow the contour
from the wall up and down over the hills. A few hardcore vendors will surprise
you within the darkened towers. because they push inexpensive t-shirts. bottles of water. and
in one situation. warm beer.
Our group for that day consisted of fifteen individuals of
all ages and nationalities. Highly suggested. and a good value at $30/person.

Not Sure How You Consume These StarfishMany individuals spend a day or much more within the Forbidden City (Imperial Palace). but two or 3 hours is
plenty. It’s exactly the same developing over and more than. surrounded by concrete
courtyards. The best components are the tree-laden gardens just prior to you exit.
which unfortunately. is exactly where the majority of the vacationers clog together. It might be
a lot much better to gather some of the ancient furnishings and artifacts and stock
them in a few of these buildings. Now. the interiors are dingy. not well lit.
and poorly furnished. Pressing my encounter against the dirty window. I thought I
was searching into grandpas darkened garage. Why not open these great halls and
produce much better displays? This could be so much better it nonetheless feels forbidden.
A should see. but prepared to become underwhelmed.

Scraping Gum in Tiananmen SquareTiananmen Square. the
symbol of freedom for many young Chinese. indeed for the whole globe. is
enormous. Allegedly the largest within the world. it’s flanked by oversized
government monuments The History Museum and Museum from the Revolution. The
Fantastic Hall of the People. The Gate of Heavenly Peace. and the Mausoleum of
Chairman Mao. Teeming with people lost in the utter spaciousness of this
historic plaza. I was amused from the roped off groups of employees who sat on
squatty small stools and scraped gum in the square. Who can ever forget that
stirring scene from the youthful man standing as much as the tank in this celebrated
square?

Bright and Shiny Monetary DistrictTalk about bloated. why Chairman Mao deserves this humongous
monument is lost on me. From an early age. kids are brainwashed into believing
Mao is the cause for todays prosperity. that is ludicrous since he killed many
from the intellectuals and capitalists. Nonetheless. it is a must see. while you move
rapidly within the line no cameras. no bags. no hats. move quickly previous his
embalmed corpse. all rosy cheeked and lit from above. Then. to add insult to
his great legacy. following viewing the Chairman. you exit to a cheesy souvenir
section. exactly where you’ve a chance to honor his communist memory by
buying capitalist trinkets. Regrettably. a should see. but probably not worth
it. Uncle Ho in Hanoi
is better and more inspiring. Later on. we will report on how Lenin stacks up in Moscow.
On a 100-degree day. we could not believe our ears as we

Hutongs of Beijingdescended
down from delightful Jingshang
Park. Strolling downhill.
the refrain grew to become clearer and louder. as we curiously followed the melody to its
source. Winding past temples. well-manicured flower patches. and emerald lawns.
we finally arrived at the scene. where flirtatious groups of individuals were
joyously training their dance steps towards the riotous and implausible tune of
Santa Claus is Coming to Town. This is a typical scene in public parks
all through Asia. where people of all ages meet
and dance to western tunes. Pretty funny.
I thought the narrow alleyways hutongs had been the best
component of Beijing.
places to obtain lost as you wandered around. poking your head in interesting retailers.
and walking wherever your curiosity requires you. The area around the Drum Tower
and Houhai Lake
felt like the genuine Beijing.
not the bright shiny urban sprawl it is now.
We shipped another box of souvenirs. sampled Peking duck.
had two-dollar haircuts in the famous Wenfeng salon. shopped for tacky items.
saw all there was to see. and prepared for that subsequent leg from the journey. the
Trans-Mongolian train across Russia. Beijing
certainly is an outstanding city. worthy of 3 to 5 days. even though it would
rank behind Hong Kong and Shanghai
as destinations. Whereas. we would return to Shanghai
and Hong Kong. we probably would not to Beijing
as soon as you’ve seen everything. there’s absolutely nothing to bring you back.
I hope that once we return. homogenized concrete buildings
and

Steep Ascent Along The Fantastic Wallshiny skyscrapers won’t dominate China. and also the government will maintain
and inspire the historic and cultural aspects of this fantastic civilization.
Perhaps China
will quit attempting to be so much like Westerners and embrace their unique
heritage.
While challenging for that independent traveler. it is
definitely rewarding whenever you be successful. With the correct period of time and
patience. you will see things you will not see anyplace else within the globe the
snaking Great Wall. the majestic and sacred Yellow
Mountain. the countless individuals on
their one-speed bikes. the smoky incense coils in the temples of Hong Kong. and the rice paddies of Yangshuo. Profound.
spiritual. everlasting – China.
even much better than the real thing.

Beguiling Guilin – China, Asia

Posted: October 4, 2012 in Travel notes

Beautiful Bridges of Guilin
Boarding the express bus to Yangshuo for a day trip. it was painfully
apparent that all of the seats were taken. but the optimistic driver emphatically
waved us on. Together with a dozen other locals. we submissively followed him to
the rear of the bus. sliding our bodies sideways and dragging our packs along
the floor. chanting "scuse me". "scuse me" to everyone we passed. shuffling
along and straining to look over the people already piled in the seats. curious
where we were being led.
Reaching the rear of the bus he started unstacking these ridiculous
tiny little plastic stools the kind you use in your kitchen to set a bucket
of water on when washing the floor and started arranging them on the floor in
the aisle one after another. Impatiently grunting at us to sit. we quickly
glanced at one another. shrugged. moved into position and gingerly sat down. the
fragile little legs splaying out and threatening to collapse at any moment. By
the time he finished there had been at least twenty riders crammed in the aisle on
the little stools. lined up knee to knee like little kids stuffed on a toboggan.
ready for the hour long trip to Yangshuo.
We had arrived in rainy Guilin.
China after an overnight
train ride from Hanoi. Vietnam. Changing trains at the
border. we gladly exchanged the shabby Vietnamese train staffed by unsmiling
attendants for the sleek and clean Chinese train with the efficient officials
checking every piece of luggage. asking a lot of questions. and generally being
very fussy with our documentation. Armed with multiple entry visas. Guilin was our first immersion into the Chinese culture as
we intended to work our way north to Beijing
over the next three months

Dancing at the park in Guilin Pointing to a slip of paper with our hotel name on it. we
eventually came to an agreement at the information desk that we needed to take
the #10 bus and get off after five stops. During a break in the rain. we hopped
across the puddles and waited in the bus queue as they continued to pull up one
after another. Finally. we saw a #10 bus pull into the queue and we boarded.
then soon realized when it left downtown that it was headed the wrong way.
Exiting at the next stop. we calculated how many stops we
just made to be added back into the five stops we needed to return the
other way. then realized we didnt have the correct change to get back on. which
required a couple stops at local stores. By the time we reboarded. it was again raining. We searched
for our hotel through steamed up windows. the bus tracing its way back along the
banks of the Li River. We counted each stop. finally arriving
tired and wet at our accommodation.
Guilin is part of the Guangxi (translates "vast.
boundless west") province. a rugged area home to 46 million people. which for
centuries was considered too remote due to its craggy range of hills and
mountains. Positioned within saw-toothed limestone karsts that jut abruptly
from the surrounding countryside. Guilin is
poetically stunning. Having a population of only 750.000. it is one of Chinas smaller
cities. Despite the modern day haziness of the town due to pollution. youre
always treated to vistas of the dreamy surrounding peaks as you walk around the
compact city.
This area was one from the first to be opened to foreigners when China reopened the country to tourists back in the early 1980s. It remains a very popular destination. evident in its western influenced hotels and restaurants. Although other people on our train had been continuing on to Beijing (another 30 hours). Guilin is a faithful and authentic introduction to China. and
certainly warrants a stopover. especially if youre on an overland route to points east. like Guangzhou and Hong Kong. our next stops.
One day we walked around the many lakes sprinkled throughout town. following the well designed walkways that wound their way around the waterways. passing ancient pagodas and crossing elaborately designed bridges which curved across the water. Along the Li River we came upon groups intently practicing their Tai Chi as if mimicking Marcel Marceau. while bands of locals congregated
for impromptu concerts. with everyone singing away and banging on metal containers. or plucking on inventive stringed instruments.

Amazing calligraphy at Seven Star Park Along the muddy banks fishermen plugged away in the murky depths with homemade bamboo poles. resourcefully winding their string around a coke can instead of a reel. Most surprising was the dance class which kept recycling the classic Ricky Martin tune "She Bangs" from a beat up old boom box. as the smiling partners flirtatiously whirled and swirled around the brick
pavement under the shelter of the trees. the kinetic energy of their passion joyously twirling their skirts.
Seven Star Park. so named for the seven peaks allegedly resembling the Big Dipper constellation. is the most famous and the most popular park in town. The interesting parts had been the caves adorned with thousand-year-old cultural graffiti. calligraphy and other inscriptions carved into the rocks by ancient poets and artists. The panda bears in the zoo are the other draw. although I found the rock collection far more fascinating. Three buildings house an amazing collection of stones in all sizes. split and polished and set on masterfully carved wood bases. Besides
the crystals and the huge hunks of polished jade. many from the rocks reveal inner landscapes. or with a little more imagination. caricatures of people or animals.

Author’s Wife and strange characters Still. theres this unsettling juxtaposition of ancient history meets modern merchandising; the entire park is littered with hundreds of fiberglass/plastic life size. colorful. half human. half insect spooky characters – a Chinese Disneyland replete with Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs. Its evident that families bring their kids to have their pictures taken in front of every one of these popular mascots. always with the upraised hand and the V. victory symbol. Im sure replicas of these mascots are sold in every one of the souvenir shops on the grounds.
A popular business venture in town is offering cruises along
the Li River ranging from one hour to five hours. Like any tour you have varying degrees of comfort. from no frills to luxurious. Boats line up early in the morning for the five-hour run up to Yangshuo. They cruise together as though
tethered like a string of pack animals. with guide commentary blaring out over tinny speakers. We thought it was pleasant enough. just to walk along the banks from the river and enjoy the sights without having to partake in a cruise.
Despite the fact that every other building and shop seemed to be China Mobile. we had a challenging time figuring out our cell phone. mostly due to a failure to communicate. We had purchased our cell phone in Singapore. had gotten accustomed to buying new SIM cards along the way a SIM card being a new phone number for your phone from a particular country that you pop
into your phone (in America AT&T charges you a $100 fee). Finally. we stumbled on a nice young lady who spoke perfect English. We had been able to buy a new SIM card and additional minutes. Evidently. the new phone number is only good within the province; well have to buy a new SIM
card when we move to other locations.

Curious Homemade Bridge in Guilin My wife has been patiently trying to replenish some of her prescriptions before they run out. that opportunity provides daily comic relief and an opportunity to interact with the locals. Arriving at a drug store. we ask around if anyone understands English. then show our prescription
name. Usually. they have a huge drug book which cross references the English name into its Chinese equivalent. Unfortunately. they never seem to have the drug in stock. Every time we pass something that even resembles a drug store. we size it up and weigh whether or not we should even attempt it.

Loved This Rock Collection Another thing that confounds us is the censorship of our blog which we are unable to access within China. Evidently. the government isnt quite so liberal in its freedom of speech and disallows its population from certain web sites. Somewhere in China is a global router with missing entries for my http://www.pfeffer.vox.com URL. Ive been able though. to get around the problem by employing anonymous IP addresses
which fools the government into thinking Im posting from Argentina rather than Guilin.
China will be a challenging segment of our adventure. Were ready for the unexpected pleasures along with the missteps. and we expect to get far with patience and a smiling attitude. Clean. compact and modern Guilin. an ancient city dating back to 200 BC. is an intriguing and comfortable introduction to Chinese culture. with enough sites and pleasures to occupy you to get a few days before heading over to Yangshuo. Beguiling Guilin. indeed!

Beguiled By Gibraltar-Europe

Posted: October 3, 2012 in Travel notes

The Rock of Gibraltar I disagree with Darwin. Evolution is overrated. If man descended in the apes. then why are the apes nonetheless here?
Hence in Gibraltar. I felt no kinship using the slightly menacing monkeys who had been poised to roll me for my travel wallet and passport. All around me. they loped and clambered aimlessly about the surreal Rock. such as the pointillist splotches of a celestial Seurat.
These had been the legendary Barbary Apes. bold exclamation points stranded upon the boulder. perhaps delivered to European shores by the Romans or the Moors. if not by playful. pernicious pirates.
Weird. It was as if all humans had vacated this lonely spit. a British Crown Colony and fortress (since 1704) in much less capable hands. all opposable thumbs and inarticulate shrieks.
The silence was indeed deafening; my thoughts supplied a soundtrack: peradventure. Peter and the Wolf or one of Bernard Hermanns very best film scores (perhaps something from Citizen Kane or the Psycho shower scene).
My Ipod suggested mood indigo: low. gravelly. and apocalyptic.
Any way you looked at Gibraltar. you felt like you had been in Spain and England at the same time. Based on my leatherbound encyclopedia. in 1878. Ramsay and Geike (whoever they are) elegantly descried it thus: The Rock . . . types a nicely marked promontory that trends in a direction south by west into the Mediterranean. With its special status. the place had sort of the split character: both bagpiper and matador.
Certainly modern Gibraltar. almost entirely rebuilt following the Great Siege (1779-1783). is populated by Spaniards and Brits who say Sorry once they pass and make telephone calls from red telephone boxes. In town I went searching for a phone so I could contact and reserve a area inside a hotel to recover from a dizzying factsomehow I was positioned in the very bottom of one continent. looking across the water at the top of another.
I spotted a teenaged Spanish woman in college uniform. and I asked if she knew of the place exactly where I could make a contact. Perhaps you could try in the Wimpys! she answered (no: insinuated) in a posh upper-crust English accent. with drilled received pronunciation.
The emphasis was around the Wiiiiiiiiiiiiimmmpyyyyyyyys! In that way which usually occurs when you meet somebody who speaks English better than you do. I couldnt help but feel a bit bit slighted.


Concerning the author
John M. Edwards has traveled worldwidely (5 continents plus). with stunts ranging from surviving a ferry sinking in Thailand to being stuck in a military coup in Fiji. His work has appeared in such magazines as CNN Traveller. Missouri Evaluation. Salon.com. Grand Tour. Islands. Escape. Endless Holiday. Cond Nast Traveler. International Living. Emerging Markets. Literal Latt. Coffee Journal. Lilliput Evaluation. Poetry Motel. Artdirect. Verge. Slab. Stellar. Trips. Big Globe. Vagabondish. Glimpse. BootsnAll. Hack Writers. Road Junky. Richmond Evaluation. Borderlines. ForeWord. North Dakota Quarterly. Michigan Quarterly Evaluation. and North American Evaluation. He lately won a NATJA (North American Travel Journalists Association) Award. a TANEC (Transitions Abroad Narrative Essay Contest) Award. along with a Solas Award (sponsored by Travelers Tales). He lives in New York Citys Hells Kitchen. His future bestsellers. Move and Fluid Borders. await publication. His new work-in-progress. Dubya Dubya Deux. is about a time traveler.

photo by coda on Flickr